EXPLORING
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By Miguel Pérez
Part 15 of a series If you have seen photos of historic downtown Santa Fe, N.M., you know the image of the Palace of the Governors. But if you have never seen it, you could reasonably ask why they call this place a palace.
It's a unique, block-long, one-story, wide-walls, adobe structure, built in the “Spanish-Pueblo Revival” style architecture and it covers the entire north side of historic Santa Fe Plaza. But it’s not what we traditionally envision as a palace. If you don't know its history, you might only see it as a shady "portal" where Native American artisans showcase and sell their unique crafts. Yet, when it was built for Spanish governor Don Pedro de Peralta, as he made Santa Fe the capital of New Mexico in 1610, compared to the architecture of that time, this place must have looked like a grand palace! |
En español: Un palacio, una plaza y un obelisco profanado |
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And it gained even more stature over the years, as it became the home of Spanish, Mexican and American New Mexico governors from 1610 to 1909 — 299 years! It also served as the state capitol during the Spanish colonial era (1610-1680 and 1692-1821) and the Mexican era (1821-1848). Mind you, at that time, the territory of Nuevo Mexico comprised the present-day states of Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Utah and Colorado. The palace was the American territorial capitol until 1886, but remained as the American governor's residence until 1909, when it became the New Mexico History Museum!
After the Pueblo Revolt, between 1680 and 1692, the Palace was occupied by hundreds of Native Americans, and it was occupied again in 1862 by the Confederate Army during the Civil War. Can you think of a building with more fluctuating history and influence? |
Image via Wikimedia Commons
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Even the Palace’s unique "Spanish-Pueblo Revival” style helped influence the architectural character of Santa Fe and much of New Mexico. It is considered "the oldest public building in continuous use constructed by European settlers in the continental United States" and a National Historic Landmark.
Inside, it still has the furnishings of a colonial palace and now serves a part of the adjacent three-story New Mexico History Museum, opened in 2009. Unfortunately, although the rest of the museum was open when I was there, the interior of the palace was closed, which is a welcomed excuse for me to go back! lol Across the street, Santa Fe Plaza is a traditional Spanish four-square-block park with a gazebo in the middle. It's a beautiful place to take a stroll, listen to an evening concert, and shop in the stores on the three other sides of the square and adjacent streets. |
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Yet, next to the gazebo, stealing the romance and history of this place, there is a huge pedestal with a missing monument. The obelisk that stood there, erected in 1867-68, was toppled on Indigenous People’s Day in 2020 by protestors who objected to memorializing Civil War Union soldiers.
Yes, Union soldiers! You've heard about all the Confederate monuments that have vandalized and removed, right? Well, this was a monument to Union soldiers — New Mexicans, including many who were Hispanic, heroes who died in battle while forcing the Confederate Army to retreat from New Mexico. In the late 19th century, Union veterans would gather at the “Soldier’s Monument” on Memorial Day. But apparently, some people now want to erase their part of history! |
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The 33-feet tall memorial (including the obelisk), has been considered "racist" by its opponents for many years. Because one of the monument’s four engraved marble panels also memorialized Union soldiers who fought against Native Americans, some radical Native Americans and their even more radical white supporters, brought down the obelisk. You would think that removing offensive language would have been enough, right? Nah! An offensive word on that panel had been chiseled-off since 1974!
Yet those who seemingly can't let go of 150-year-old grudges destroyed the obelisk anyway, in a "peaceful" demonstrations that turned violent. |
Soldier's Monument, before it was toppled, and as it was being destroyed on Indigenous People's Day/2020. Photos via Wikimedia Commons
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And the city, intimidated by a small but loud minority, seems to be totally impotent on this matter.
Now, instead of an obelisk, all they have left is a square stone pedestal with only a city sign, made of copper, poorly explaining why the obelisk is missing. This temporary sign has been there for so long that it has deteriorated (see photos) to the point where you can hardly read it. This is in the very center of the city! It's embarrassing! But I'm going to refrain from further comments for now, because I want to focus on the many beautiful things I have seen in New Mexico, the Hispanic history that is still recognized here. I will deal with a few of its self-inflicted, anti-Hispanic scars in a separate article soon. |
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For now, since the New Mexico History Museum is open next door, even without access to the Palace of the Governors, I think that should be my next article. Stay tuned!
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To read other parts of this ongoing series, click: EXPLORING NEW MEXICO
